S3 E-Type

Carburettor Strip & Rebuild

by Dave Lacey

Strip Down
The youngest of these carbs is now ~20+ years old, so their general exterior condition is likely caked in oil and garbage, also components of the linkage may be rusted & worn. However, the best thing to do is get in there and pull the thing to pieces, it all needs cleaning anyway.

First, remove the dashpot cover & withdraw the piston/diaphragm assembly.
Take great care with the precision metering needle that extends from the bottom of the piston; don't do anything that might risk bending or damaging this.
Then, remove the Temperature Compensator (whitish/yellow plastic lid, 2 screws), Bypass Valve (3 normal screws, NOT the 3 Philips screws) and enrichment/'choke' assembly.
Turning the unit over, the float bowl cover can be removed, then the float unclipped and the needle valve unscrewed. Jets are normally a hard push-fit and should only be touched if a replacement is at-hand. Adjustable-jet versions were made, but I've never seen one.


Finally, the throttle spindle can be disassembled, try to keep the parts in the right order (e.g. by threading them on a wire) and sketch the orientation of the levers and throttle spindle as you will forget...no matter how obvious it looks now.....
To remove the spindle, remove the 2 screws retaining the butterfly (these are soft copper) and remove the butterfly disc. Then, before pulling out the spindle grind down any burrs around the 2 screwholes in the spindle. Then you can withdraw the spindle with no damage to the bearings & seals in the carb body.

The Stromberg features throttle spindle seals, this means that spindle wear is far less than you see in unprotected SU HS type carbs, and bearings are normally in good condition, in many cases throttle spindles can be re-used. If you can, replace the seals, these little brass retainers can be levered out of the carb body with a screwdriver- but don't do this unless you have spares at-hand.
All parts need to be cleaned by removing oil, by soaking in kerosene, and then removing dust/corrosion. For the carb body I use phosphoric acid based 'Aluminum Cleaner' - this stuff is powerful so brush it on the carb body, work it in & wash it off within a few minutes trying to avoid it contacting any of the critical inner surfaces of the carburettor. This gets the carb clean in 10 mins- all you need to do in throuroughly wash it and dry it out.

Rebuild Kits

There are different types of rebuild kit, the basic ones have the diaphragms & gaskets, but don't contain parts for the Bypass Valves or spindle seals.


The full Zenith rebuild kits contain nearly all the parts you could need, including spinble bearings, jets, screws & washers. The things you'll need to add are needles (make & model-year specific) and potentially the plastic covers for the Temperature Compensator, as this cover is often discoloured and warped.

Temperature Compensators
This part of the carburettor is an air-bleed past the thottle butterfly to weaken the mixture at low throttle openings. It is a temperature-dependant air bleed; the device contains a bimetallic strip to sense the temperature of the engine. It's a precision device; DON'T TOUCH the small nyloc nut part-way down the bimetallic strip, this is the fine adjustment of the device.
This device malfunctions when the valve doesnt close properly, causing weak mixture at cold idle, and this often "fixed" by tightening the small nyloc nut until the bimetal strip is permantly bent, but this will cause the mixture to be rich when the engine is hot affecting emissions and fuel consumption.
If you suspect the compensator is malfunctioning, you can isolate it on the car by blocking the ~8mm diameter hole on the face of the carburettor where the air cleaner fits (in about the 4 o'clock position). I normally use those squidgy foam ear plugs which seem to fit just fine. Once blocked mixture will richen at idle (cold) if the compensator is defective.
Service for this item involves cleaning and re-setting of the bimetal strip. There are a number of article on the internet about how to set these up- I set mine to be just opening at 28C.

Bypass Valves
This is another throttle bypass, this time vacuum-actuated. It's designed to limit over-rich mixture in over-run engine braking conditions. It consists of a spring loaded valve, the valve head is brass mounted in a rubber 'gasket'. By unscrewing the 3 philips screws the unit will spring apart under the static spring pressure.\

When old, the rubber splits and as a result the bypass valve 'bypasses' all the time. Sometimes the spring load is adustable (allowing the vacuum level at which bypass opens to be set), more often they are pre-set/sealed.
Although the parts are not in the basic rebuild kit, my advice would be to always rebuild these units - you need to be confident that they are functioning correctly.
A separate bypass valve kit is available, it's got the brass/rubber bit plus a few gaskets to sandwich it:

Enrichment Device
The 'choke' on a Stromberg normally consists of this device on the LHS of the carb body.
It's basically a throttle bypass tube that draws fuel thru 2 sets of 3 precision-sized holes in an aluminium disc to dump a lot of extra fuel into the manifold, the amount of fuel depending how far the disk is turned.\

Grit can damage the aluminium face against which the spring-loaded disc rests, and the holes in the disc can get corroded. Maintenance involves cleaning & checking of all parts, careful lubrication and reassembly with new gaskets.

Float Chamber

The bottom cover is held on with 6 screws. For designs without adjustable jets (the majority), there is a plastic plug with a brass cap blocking a hole in this bottom cover. Carefully bend the 4 plastic tabs on the inside to push out this plug, then replace the 'o' Ring and clean-up the sealing areas of the cover.
The float should be checked to ensure that the metal frame is straight and that there's no problem of fuel leaking into the float. It should swing freely on the hinge pin.
The needle valve features an integral gauze filter which you can see once it's unscrewed. I've never known these valves wear out, but the gauze filters do get damaged.
On reassembly, make sure the float is fitted the right way up: the plastic float is attached to one side of the metal frame. With the carb upside down, you should be able to see the majority of the metal frame, if it's obscured by the plastic in some areas then it's upside down. It's critical to get this right or the fuel level in the float chamber will be screwed-up.

When removed from the carburettor, you have the piston/diaphragm/needle sub-assembly.

The piston features the adjustment for the needle, this adjustment is done using a long allen key pushed sown the damper tube in the top of the piston. When adjusting the needle in the fully-assembled carb, be aware that the rubber diaphragm is the only thing resisting rotation of the piston. You must hold the piston still whilst rotating the allen key or the diaphragm will be torn. The correct tool for this has 2 spigots that engage with the 2 cut-outs in the top of the piston damper tube.
If you keep loosing the oil in your damper, then suspect that the "O" ring of the brass plug/adjuster at the bottom of the damper tube is faulty.
The needle is the critical metering element of the carburettor, if it's history is unknown then replace it!
The diaphragm must seal perfectly, as the pressure differential either side of this is what causes the carb to 'respond' to changes in throttle/load. These are part of standard rebuild kits, so do replace & keep the old one as an emergency spare.

Carburettor Body

After cleaning, inspect the throttle spindle bearings.

If possible fit new spindle seals - the are vital to stop air leaks and to protect the spindle bearings, they are a push fit:

Once the bearings are lubricated, the throttle spindle and butterfly can be fitted:

Do make sure the spindle is fitted the right way, as it most likely protrudes further from one side of the body than the other. Also, be aware that in multiple carburettor setups, each spindle may be a different length. The copper screws should be bent-over to prevent any chance of the screws loosening and being ingested by the engine....

Piston & Dashpot Refitting

With the rest of the carburettor rebuilt, the piston should be trial-fitted to the dashpot cover to check it moves freely- it should slide up&down without any tight spots. If there is any interference, carefully clean both components with a mild abrasive (i use those plastic scouring pads to clean-up the surfaces).


The dashpot cover is normally fitted wrongly! People fit it with the wording cast in the cover visible from the air cleaner face. This is wrong: there are some small casting marks on both parts that indicate they should be aligned with the lump on the neck of the dashpot facing towards the air cleaner face.


Note the aligned casting marks in the middle of the pic, just above the air cleaner flange.

Final Points
Once the carb is rebuilt, check the piston drops onto the bridge inside the carb with a sharp metallic 'click' [pull it to the top of its travel with your finger & let go]: this indicates that the piston is moving freely on the dashpot cover and is not binding in the carb body (or the needle could be binding in the jet). If there's no click, pull the dashpot cover off & find the cause; without the piston moving freely the whole carb's operation is compromised.

In the unlikely event that the float chamber needle valve doesnt seal when you first supply petrol, try hitting the carb body with a soft-headed mallet (!), this is a far quicker solution than tearing down the float chamber & finding nothing wrong...

Carburettor Strip & RebuildAnonymous|25 Oct : 12:31

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nice article, thanks for posting

Carburettor Strip & Rebuildcoachrugg@yahoo.com|21 Dec : 12:10

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Super, super job!!
I have been told to diisable the bimetallic strip by fully tightening the nyloc nut and disabling the bypass valve by plugging the vacuum leads. The reason for this being that this was part of the emission system for U.S. cars and hurt performance. Needles replaced with the ones for Brotish sales and the egr breather blocked. Application: v12 xke.
Please email me at above address for any comment.
Thanks again.

Your article is so very good and complete. Excellent pictures and naration. I'm downloading this one to keep!!

Carburettor Strip & Rebuild230_sl|14 Jan : 19:10

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Excelent job! Unique on the web

Marco, Italy

Carburettor Strip & RebuildAndre Cassis|16 Jul : 10:23

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Hello my friend. I have a problem after my mechanic rebuilt all four Strombergs,the linkage seems to stick and causes the throttle to stick.Inbetween shifts the throttle pedal has to be blipped to bring down the rpms from 3,000 and proceed to the next shift. At idle the throttle causes a fast idle and pedal must be blipped to reduce same. Any ideas or comments would be appreciated....otherwise the engine sounds great and idles great.To reply please use acassis©polarisrealty.com. Thanks, Andre Cassis in Montreal,Quebec

Re: Carburettor Strip & RebuildMarco|14 Sep : 22:38

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I have the same problem... Did you find out what seems to be the causes?

Carburettor Strip & RebuildAD|01 Feb : 03:07

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This is excellent, but I am not too handy myself and have always had my mechanic do most of the work. However, he retired recently and his replacement has rebuilt my carburetors. Now, if I don't drive the car for a few weeks, the car spews petrol on the ground. The new guy says it is the quality of the petrol available here in Los Angeles. Apparently the needle gets sticky when the gas is left sitting in the carburetor. apart from returning to the mechanic each time, is there something that I can do to prevent the sticking?

Carburettor Strip & RebuildFlyer 295|23 Apr : 16:16

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I have a problem with an E type Jag. I can get the engine to run by spraying EasyStart or brake cleaner in to the all 4 air intakes with the butterflies open prior to starting. BUT it won't continue to run on the carbs.

I'm impressed with your detailed carb item and wondered if you could tell me why ALL
these 4 carbs will not work. There is suction at the air intake but only detectable by using a tissue across the opening. NO air leaks
Bob Hitchin

Carburettor Strip & RebuildClassic Petrolheads|01 May : 05:58

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I have what I think is a unique problem. I've been working on a customer's E Type Series 1.5 and the Strombergs appear to be a mish mash of various carbs. I say this because I cannot find any kind of adjustment for the needles. The carb dashpots say CD2 175 but after extensive research I found the bodies to be CDSE. So, the jets are the fixed type but there is no adjustment on the needle side. The needles are set into a blind hole and are held in place with a blunt tipped screw. No access from above as the damper chamber is also blind. I have ploughed the internet and have not been able to find anything like it. Could it be that some previous guy has fitted pistons from an adjustable jet carb to CDSE bodies? If anyone can throw any light on this you will have my eternal gratitude.

Carburettor Strip & Rebuildgiovanni rome zenith stromberg 175 c2 fixed needle|20 May : 03:51

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fixed needle as I can replace it with an unusable adjustment key on the fixed needle type many thanks

Carburettor Strip & Rebuild04oldsmobile|23 May : 10:22

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Hi there, i need help after rebuilding the 4 carbs on a V12.
The carbs all run beautifully but the butterflies wont return fully while the car is running at idle. When i turn the engine off they pop back that last mm. This is causing the throttle to feel sticky when first accelerating but ok after that. Again once back at idle its sticky to accelerate but as soon as the engine is switched off the throttle is perfectly free. Its not the linkage as ive disconnected that and the same problem is there. Its like its a vacuum issue holding them slightly open while running but they close when turned off. Has anyone got any idea what could cause this or had the same problem ? Please e mail me at david.wilkens©bristols.co.nz
Any help would be much appreciated.

Etype S3 1974I need to find either used or new airfilter box s|09 Oct : 11:13

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hi I’m looking for both left and right Air filter boxes
For a Jaguar Etype v12 s3
Can you either assist or recommend someone who has a couple?

Carburettor Strip & RebuildHammerman |12 Oct : 09:29

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Regarding CD 175 Stromberg. There is an air vent column running parallel to the neck on the dashpot cover. Dashpot falls freely with metallic click. After screwing in the damper
Screw there seems to be a vacuum effect where the dashpot falls slowly without click or fully closing. When running car rough idle and gas smell at red lights. Dashpot not fully dropping. Dashpot screw is straight and clean. Dashpot stem the same. Switched dashpot screw from working carbs with no change. Have to think the vent column is clogged stopping venting but it seems clean and open on a blow test.

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